What is Follicopeptide®?

Follicopeptide is a patented cosmetic technology combining a precisely defined peptide with a water-free gel serum formulation to improve the appearance of hair density. It originates from nearly two decades of peptide research at Lund University in Sweden.

The technology

The Follicopeptide® technology

Structural model of the Follicopeptide peptide

Precisely defined peptide

A precisely engineered synthetic peptide built from 15 amino acids and based on a modified part of osteopontin, a natural human protein involved in the body’s maintenance and renewal processes.Ingredient name (INCI): sh-Oligopeptide-128 SP

The water-free Follicopeptide gel serum

Patented gel serum formulation

A patented water-free gel serum designed for stability and performance.

The gel serum being applied with a precision applicator

The Follicopeptide® technology

A protected system rather than a single patented ingredient, developed for use in leave-on cosmetic hair serums.

Key characteristics

Hormone-independent

A hormone-independent cosmetic approach suitable for both men and women.

Leave-on

Designed for convenient once-daily leave-on application.

Fully synthetic

Precisely defined to ensure consistent purity and quality across every batch.

Non-animal-derived

The peptide is free of any animal or botanical origin.

Water-free

Patented water-free serum formulation designed for stability and long-term cosmetic use.

Patented technology

Protected by dual patents covering both the peptide and its formulation.

The research

Follicopeptide originates from research conducted at Lund University in Sweden, beginning in 2006.

The main university building at Lund University, Sweden

How it began

The early research was led by Professors Anna Hultgårdh Nilsson and Jan Nilsson together with researcher Pontus Dunér. At the time, the team was not trying to develop a cosmetic hair serum. Their focus was academic research into fundamental biological processes involved in tissue repair, vascular biology and cellular signaling. And this is where osteopontin became particularly interesting. It is involved in several biological processes and is also naturally present in and around the hair follicle.

Laboratory microscope used in scientific research

Osteopontin – a natural human protein

Researchers began studying specific fragments of osteopontin to understand whether smaller peptide sequences could retain distinct biological properties of the much larger protein. This work led to the development of a modified osteopontin-derived peptide, which was subsequently investigated in laboratory studies and research on human hair follicles. The peptide then entered a drug development program and was investigated in controlled clinical studies designed to explore its effect on scalp hair.

Cosmetic application of the Follicopeptide technology

From drug development to cosmetic technology

Over time, the technology was adapted for cosmetic use and made available through consumer products. The knowledge generated through the drug development program became the foundation for Follicopeptide, which combines a precisely defined peptide with a patented water-free gel serum formulation developed for topical hair applications.

The researchers

  • Prof. Jan Nilsson

    World-renowned clinical researcher and professor emeritus at Lund University. His research focuses on metabolic disease, tissue repair and peptide innovation, with extensive experience in translating scientific discoveries into commercial applications. A member of the Royal Swedish Academy of Sciences, he has held a professorship at Karolinska Institutet, served as visiting professor at UCLA and been dean of Lund University’s Faculty of Medicine. He has published more than 400 scientific papers.

  • Prof. Anna Hultgårdh Nilsson

    Professor at Lund University and a recognized expert in peptide biology and tissue repair, with a strong track record of innovation in hair and peptide technology. Her research has also documented novel peptides derived from osteopontin, a natural glycoprotein, and their ability to stimulate hair follicle initiation and growth.

  • Pontus Dunér, PhD

    Researcher and inventor with extensive experience in peptide research, inflammation and translational medicine. His work spans academia and the life-science industry, with a particular focus on translating scientific discoveries into innovative therapeutic and commercial applications.

Hair biology

Healthy hair growth is a complex biological process influenced by many factors. Genetics, hormones, nutrition, stress, aging, overall health and lifestyle — as well as the condition of the scalp — all play a role.

At the core of this process is the hair growth cycle. Each hair grows, rests and eventually sheds before a new hair begins to grow. A deeper understanding of this natural cycle has guided the development of modern cosmetic technologies for hair.

Illustration of a hair follicle in the anagen phase

Anagen

The active growth phase. It lasts two to eight years for scalp hair but is considerably shorter for eyebrow and eyelash hairs.

Catagen

A brief transition phase when hair growth stops and the follicle begins to shrink.

Telogen

The resting phase. The hair remains in place while the follicle prepares for new growth.

Exogen

The shedding phase, when the old hair is released as a new hair begins to grow.